Deurali(3200)->Annapurna Base Camp(4130)

The morning is the coolest and foggiest so far. As we start the final ascent we notice the people going in the opposite direction are all rugged up and soaked.
We arrive at Machhapuchre Base Camp(3700) very cold and tired and noticing slight headaches. We order hot tea to regroup and meet a couple from Spain as well as 2 English girls all sheltering from the weather on their way up. Leaving our new friends we start the final assault. By now the fog has changed to a chilling rain however the track has leveled out. We take it slow cautious as we are not sure how we will react to the altitude.
Then, appearing through the fog we see the final steps leading to the base camp buildings. We both proudly climb these together. We are met by locals who congratulate our efforts before quickly sheltering from the elements, we however take a moment to sit. It is not long before we are worried our goofy grins might become frozen in place.As we go inside the snow starts to fall we begin to doubt whether the fog will lift before we have to start the trek back down.
Through my many trips through South East Asia I have until this point managed to avoid using the squat toilet to its intended design. I cannot wait any longer. Results were mixed the cold conditions did not help.
I return to the dining hall where a heater is cranking and the porters card game something along the lines of poker has increased in intensity as well as the betting stakes. We meet up with our friends from MBC and play spoons. I lose and have to piggy back the winner the Spanish guy around the camp drawing attention to myself with donkey noises. As everyone returns to the dining hall sufficiently entertained I linger as I am warm from my physical challenge. I look out and notice the sky is clearing I call for the others and we spend the rest of the afternoon climbing ridges and watching the surrounding peaks appear and disappear. The ridge overlooks an immense rockfall resembling an open cut mine. Every so often the crack and rumble of a landslide echoes through the amphitheater.
We had been in a plastic bottle free zone since Taulung so we fill our existing bottles with boiled water I have the idea of placing this in my sleeping bag. That night when I inform Nick of my amazing idea he calls me a princess and tells me the last time he had a hot water bottle he was 5.

Taulung(2180) -> Deurali (3200)

We are finally on the direct track to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). We descend the valley sharply the rest of the day is a constant up with sections of as yet unseen steepness. Another dog accompanies us most of the morning. Almost as if sensing what was coming the dog stays behind at the last town before it starts to rain. A fog chases me up the valley.
Some exciting river crossing later we slowly reach Deurali. The fog is now filling the valley like a cup at the same time the temperature starts to drop. Nick goes for a cold shower and returns buzzing. He is disgusted with me when I take the hot bucket option.

Ghorepani(2860)->Taulung(2180)

Lightening had been flashing along the valley all night. We wake to rain and fog and are both very glad we did Poon hill the night before. We allow ourselves a sluggish start and it is a pleasant days walk in the cooler weather.
Finding Chuile was an adventure the path seemed to lead to a backyard we started to backtrack when a donkey herder told us we were in fact on the right track. A few more yards, fences and funky gates later we come upon an amazing guest house. Perched on the edge of a massive and steep valley with views of terraces, waterfalls and landslides. We contemplate staying and chatting to our new friends but this same view clearly showed the descent and then ascent that was still to come.

Birethanti(1025)->Ghorepani(2860)

We organize to have breakfast ready for 6:30. I am running late. Kris calls out to tell me my food is getting cold I grab my pack and head out. A dog is lying outside my door. He follows me all the way to the breakfast table and sits patiently while we finish eating and say goodbye to Kris. Almost as if sensing we are now guide-less the dog accompanies us on our journey. We pass one town then the next always our new friend is by our side. In spite of several suspension bridges which it was evident he did not enjoy he does not abandon us. We finally lose him almost an hour in, we assume he has gone with some tourists that were heading in the opposite direction.
Not long after this that we lose our morning shade and the track starts a steep climb the infamous Tikhedhungga(1520) to Ulleri(2020) steps. Thing gets marginally less steep from there to Banthanti(2210) where I meet Nick for lunch. We nap during the now anticipated hour waiting time.
The track continues on through dense forests, squeezing past enormous cows and through packs of unaccompanied donkeys. We reach the our accommodation for the night and in spite on the non-existent visibility Nick is keen to get up Poon hill(3210). By now the temperature has dropped considerably we reach the top and see absolutely nothing. Just before we start to head down a faint glimmer of mountain peeks through a hole in the clouds.

Pokhara(828)->Birethanti(1025)

We rise early this morning and buy croissants from kids selling them wrapped in newspaper on the street - 30 rupee. I decide a coffee would go great with this. We go to a restaurant and are told to sit well inside from the half open roller door. Nick goes back to the hotel and soon afterward some Maoists walk in, sit down at a table and begin yelling at the staff. I pay with a 1000 rupee note, while I am waiting for change the arguments seem to get more heated a soviet flag is banged against the table as I grab my change and hot foot it out of there.
I meet Nick and our guide Kris who will walk us to the start of the trek no other transport options are available. We start the trek proper and are immediately glad we got a guide as the first turnoff would have been impossible to find. We begin the climb to Sarangot (1592). Nick is setting a cracking pace I am struggling. I am getting dizzy from the exertion, Kris starts to get worried. I finally join them at the lookout, I am utterly exhausted. The view over the town on the lake is amazing we are so high there are eagles circling below us. We are lead from one shortcut to the next I am able to keep up through the flatter sections. We manage to avoid the road most of the way however on one section we encounter a group of very young local girls that have made skis out of flattened plastic water bottles and are skillfully getting dragged downhill.
We stop at nirvana guest house, while sipping our cokes Nick points over my shoulder and we see Machhapucchre for the first time from this angle it is obvious why they call it the fishtail. From here it is all downhill to Birethanti where we stay the night.
We managed to cover 2 days trekking in 1 and apart from the porters are carrying the heaviest packs of anyone we pass. While waiting for dinner at our guesthouse the last rays of sun hit the fish tail mountain. Kris marks on our map the best places to stop and what time we should be leaving each morning. I barely have the energy to write this as I plonk into bed.